|
|
Post by bazooka on Aug 17, 2019 14:18:35 GMT
New to reloading
After mauling it over for some time, I have finally decided to jump into reloading. I have purchased the following equipment:
Presses
RCBS Pro Chucker 5 (5 stage progressive press)
RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme (single stage press)
7x Pro Chucker 5 Die Plates
Shell Plates
RBCS Pro Chucker Shell Plate #44 (500 Magnum)
RBCS Pro Chucker Shell Plate #32 (7.62x39)
Dies.
Lee Precision 90288 500 S&W Magnum 3 Die Carbide Set
Lee Precision 90931 500 S&W Magnum Collet Style Crimp Die
Lee Precision 90177 500 S&W Magnum Quick Trim Die
Lee Precision Deluxe 90963 9mm Luger 4 Die Carbide Set
Lee Precision Deluxe 90447 380 Auto 4 Die Carbide Set
Lee Precision Deluxe 90964 38 Special 4 Die Carbide Set
Lee Precision Deluxe 90965 40 S&W 4 Die Carbide Set
Lee Precision Deluxe 90968 45 ACP 4 Die Carbide Set
Lee Precision Deluxe 90967 45 Colt 4 Die Carbide Set
Misc.
Quick Trim Die Tool
7x Pro Chucker 5 Die Plates, each die set comes with the individual shell holder
I do not have all the shell plates or die sets. I’m shopping around at the moment. Prices vary widely between sites and calibers. It was less expensive to purchase the 4 die sets with the factory crimp die than to buy them separate. I’m currently $1400 in and no reloading supplies yet or books yet.
I plan to use the single stage press for all the case prep work, depriming, resizing and trimming. Use the progressive press for expanding, charging, seating and crimping. That’ll leave a station later for something else.
|
|
|
|
Post by Admin on Aug 17, 2019 14:21:20 GMT
You're going to need some other tools like a powder measure and scale. I would recommend staying away from lee on the powder measure and get a RCBS. The lee are real cheaply made and i hear people all the time complaining they leak powder. I do a ton of reloading and just use a cheap franfurt arsenal digital scale. They work very well. I actually have two and check them between each other often and also check them with a beam scale i have but i never actually use the beam scale for loading because they can be a pain. Don't be afraid to buy more than one book. I have 3 i use the most. Lyman and Lee and then the lyman cast bullet book if you're going to use cast bullets but many(not all) of the loads are in their regular book. There are a ton of other books too but they are mostly bullet and powder brand specific where the other two are not and cover so much more. A hand primer will come in handy and i like Lee's over the RCBS but they just changed their design in the last year so i can't say if that one is good or not. My RCBS will pop the top cover off when priming but maybe i just got a lemon. With the list of de calibers you posted you probably won't need a trimmer but if you get into any rifle calibers you will. Straight wall pistol for the most part does not stretch enough to worry about and auto cases will actually shrink over time but the differences in case lengths won't really affect anything. Case gauges/ammo checkers come in handy when loading. Check out lymans multi caliber ones. You can get one that will do everything on your list except the 500S&W and its maybe $20 or so. You'll also need a set of calipers, don't skimp on those and buy a set from harbor freight or get a plastic set. Get a set from RCBS, Lyman etc. There are some other things you'll need as well. A way to clean your brass. You can go dry, wet or use a sonic cleaner. For starting out a decent dry vibrator works fine. Loading blocks come in handy and you can make them if you're a wood worker or just buy them. I like the frankfurt arsenal one but they are a little more expensive than some others that will work fine. A kinetic hammer will also be useful and i'm sure i'm forgetting some other small tools that you'll need or come in handy.....Prepare to save some money!!!! lol
I would recommend you start with 38sp and do it all on the single stage to get yourself familiar with all the steps and how everything works before you jump into the progressive after reading through one of the books you buy. . 38sp is one of the easiest calibers to load IMO. When you start in the semi auto calibers shoot some in your guns before you load a bunch. Just because you see loads in the book does not mean they will cycle your gun correctly. make sure the load has enough power to eject the case and pick up the next round, no stove piping etc.<----- ive actually made this mistake a few times. Nothing like having 500 rounds to shoot up that won't reliably work. Please do not start out loading for the 500, one little mistake can be bad on those high power calibers.
|
|
|
|
Post by oldhippy on Aug 17, 2019 14:28:56 GMT
The most important thing you can do is take your time familiarizing yourself with the process. The peculiarities of some cartridges will become more obvious as you gain experience. I would recommend using the data for the applicable bullets you are using when ever possible. If you like Hornady bullets, then use their data, and buy their manual. There is a lot of additional data available from powder manufacturers that is quite good too. I recommend the Hodgdon manual that is published as a magazine every year as another viable source of data. Avoid using another manufacturers data for your bullets. For example, do not use Speer data to load Hornady bullets; while you might find a lot of overlap, the two different bullets are often seated to different depths and have differing bearing surfaces that affects load pressures. You mention a desire for consistent seating depth and crimps; good call! Doing so will only enhance the accuracy of your ammo.
There is is a lot of reloading experience here at INTGF; lean on that experience when you need to.
Finally, I would urge you to think through the process to develop a safe and effective order/sequence and routine. One helpful idea is to rotate the brass in the loading blocks as you progress up through the steps so you can, at a glance, verify that each case is at the same condition and, of course, see that your powder charges look consistent throughout the block. When I load a batch of rifle ammo that is not already primed, I start with the cases mouth up until primed then mouth down so when you are done they are all butt up with visible primers to do a quick double check for a primer possibly not seated fully. Then, as you charge each case with powder you turn them over one at a time to charge them; when done you can easily see if they are all charged uniformly. Turning them one at a time helps prevent accidental over charging or failure to charge, and the scan of the loading block is a quick double check. Obviously you do not need to follow my routine, but make sure you have one that is systematic and allows you to double check prior to the next step. Things will not be the same when you go progressive, but you still need to be systematic and observant! Enjoy!
|
|
